Kaohsiung’s Best International & Local Restaurants

After over two and half years spent on a small island in South Korea, I’m not ashamed to say Kaohsiung’s variety of restaurants is one of my favourite things about this large city.
Here is a list of some of my personal favourites:

Din Tai Fung – Want your Taiwanese cravings satisfied? This renowned Taiwanese chain of restaurants is popular around the world. Be prepared to wait for a table, especially on the weekend. They are most famous for their plump soup dumplings.
Address: No. 777, Bo’ai 2nd Rd, Zuoying District, Kaohsiung City, 813

Yale Town – A Candian themed restaurant, with some small traces of Taiwanese fusion, this restaurant is popular for lunch (although also open for dinner). While I prefer the sandwiches or slow cooked pork/wings with rice, my partner prefers their Paninis; but I couldn’t imagine anyone faulting a dish on their menu.
Address: No. 26-3, Xinguang Road, Lingya District, Kaohsiung City, 802

Bark – If you want a German Brat, or just a good quality, fair priced breakfast, Bark is the place to go. They make their own bread and sausages, and you can really taste it!
They back onto a park and have frisbees and a badminton kit to entertain yourself with while you wait. The staff are friendly and we have never been disappointed by the food.
*Note: The breakfast menu is only available on weekends and they open at 11am. Also, you may need your GPS to locate them as their shop front is small.
Address: 城峰路313號, Zuoying District, Kaohsiung City, 813

Conways – If you want a hearty meal, but prefer something from ‘across the pond’, Conways is the place to be. The internal facade of this restaurant is decorated to resemble a quaint British pub, which melds well with the authentically British food. Here you can get your fill of Sunday roasts with Yorkshire puddings, cottage pie, and beans on toast with your large English breakfast.
*Note: You usually need to book a table in advance and pre-order the Sunday roast.
Address: No. 65-10, Xinzhuangzi Rd, Zuoying District, Kaohsiung City, 813

Katsi Cafe – A mediterranean delight, this restaurant is relaxed, fair priced, and authentic. The owners are a French chef and his partner, both of whom are very warm and passionate about their food and business. The food at this establishment is very diverse, and the menu is large; offering dishes from such countries as Syria, France, Greece, and Italy. There is no A/C at this restaurant, as it offers more of a rustic setting, keeping the atmosphere casual and communal. If I go, I must always have the greek salad with every meal; the dressing is amazing.
Address: 804, Kaohsiung City, Gushan District, 九如四路1823號

Chih Kan Dan Zai Noodles – I have personally struggled to find fresh traditional Taiwanese food I like in Kaohsiung. So sadly, I must be honest, this restaurant is technically in Tainan. However, despite being located in Tainan it is conveniently situated within walking distance of Tainan Train Station (30 minute train ride Zuyoing Train Station in Kaohsiung) and pretty much neighbouring Anping Fort. Also, around the block you will find FORT gelato, a great after meal treat. This restaurant offers fresh, light, authentic Taiwanese food at a fair price. The menu has pictures, so it is an easy choice for those who don’t speak Chinese. The environment is very relaxed and comfortable, with A/C in the summer and lots of space, so you don’t feel crowded when it is busy.
Address: No. 180, Section 2, Minzu Rd, West Central District, Tainan City, 700

 

Honorable Mentions:

 

• Foster Hewitts: A Canadian themed bar that offers great wings and delicious cocktails.
• Maharaja Indian Restaurant: Offers many authentic and creamy curries.
• Wakey Wakey: This American style bar/restaurant offers a great atmosphere for a drink and/or meal on it’s large deck overlooking lotus lake. We really enjoyed celebrating Christmas and bringing in the New Year at this venue.
• Hungarian Restaurant: Offers traditional and comforting Hungarian and Czech dishes. 
• German Soul: The sausages are handmade by the friendly and passionate German owner/chef. They offer traditional German meals such as strudel, pretzels, meat loaf, schnitzel, currywurst, and many other German favourites.

One Week in Laos – The Best Itinerary

I had one relaxing and thrilling week in Laos.

If you are strapped for time and can only afford one adventurous week in Laos, here is my perfect itinerary:

Day 1 – Luang Prabang:

Arrived in Luang Prabang in the late afternoon.
Got settled in my hotel and had dinner and drinks by Nam Khan River.

Day 2 – Luang Prabang:

Took a shared van to Kuang Si Falls. There was also a small bear sanctuary there.
Had a massage that night in the main shopping street.

Day 3 – Luang Prabang -> Viang Vieng:

Got an early van to Viang Vieng (This also allowed us to see the monks who take offerings early in the mornings from locals on the side of the road). Takes roughly 6 hours, but it is a picturesque drive.
Arrive in Viang Vieng have lunch and a drink near the water (there are a couple of Friends cafes to relax in by the water). The sunset in Viang Vieng is beautiful.
We also rented bicycles and rode around the tiny village.

Day 4 – Viang Vieng:

We rented scooters and drove out to Tham Phu Kham Cave and the Blue Lagoon. It was a really nice drive and it was great to be able to pull over and take photos of the beautiful landscape.
We rented the torch and helmet to go spelunking in the cave, but if you really want to explore it I recommend paying for a guide.

Day 5 – Viang Vieng:

We took an early morning hot air balloon ride – it was amazing!
We just relaxed the rest of the day (we had our second massage on the trip).

Day 6 – Viang Vieng -> Vientiane:

We relaxed in the morning and then took a shared van to Vientiane (about 2-3 hour drive).
In Vientiane we went to the top of the Patuxai and took photos. Then we went and had drinks by the Mekong river and dinner at a restaurant nearby. Finally we explored the night markets by the Mekong.

Day 7 – Vientiane.

In the morning I explored the streets of Vientiane and later in the afternoon I made my way to the airport.

Things we did not do because we either didn’t have time or it wasn’t a priority for us:
-Tubing in Viang Vieng.
-Exploring local temples.
-Seeing the highly recommended sunset in Luang Prabang from Phu Si hill.
-Mandalao elephant sanctuary
-4000 islands

Taiwan (Kaohsiung) Vs. South Korea (Jeju Island)

I lived for over two and a half years on Jeju island in South Korea (Sept 2011 – Feb 2014).
I have now been living in the city of Kaohsiung in Taiwan for over a year (since Jan 2016).
Deciding to leave your home and your country and moving abroad to a foreign country can be very daunting. But when you finally decide to take that big leap, you may not know the most important thing – which country?
Two of the most popular countries for living and teaching ESL in are Taiwan and South Korea. So, for those of you who are unsure which country suites them I have written up a list of pros and cons comparing my experience living in Taiwan vs. South Korea.
*Please note, this is a personal comparative analysis of these two very different countries in two vastly different cities.

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South Korea (Jeju City)

Taiwan (Kaohsiung City)

Starting up: South Korea is an easier country to establish yourself, since you usually apply for jobs and do the majority of the visa process from home. It is also less costly because you arrive with a job, an apartment, and (hopefully) a steady paycheque. Social Life: South Korea had an amazing group of Expats who made the experience fun, memorable, and unique. The expat community was very tight and special; they were like family and really made the whole experience for me. South Korea had a great nightlife – Koreans are very friendly and LOVE to drink.  Warning for those who enjoy recreational narcotics – Drugs are a big NO, NO, in South Korea. Excluding nightlife, weekends were still a blast on Jeju. You could explore the beautiful outdoors or go to one of the many organised expat community gatherings. The landscape: Jeju island (and Busan) are BEAUTIFUL. But Jeju is getting an American military base, a second airport, and it is becoming a lot more populated by Chinese immigrants and holidaymakers (which the locals aren’t happy about). However, in my experience, Jeju was beaches, waterfalls, and clear skies. A country that proudly experiences all four seasons in all their glory. Living Arrangements: If you are an ESL teacher in Korea, it is most likely your employer will set you up with an apartment. So, it can be luck of the draw. This is because in Korea landlords usually want you to pay all the rent for one year up-front (in the long run this is the cheaper option). The apartments in Korea aren’t great and you often don’t get a choice on where you live. The people: Koreans are mostly very accepting and friendly to westerners. Korea has a social hierarchy based on age and gender, which can be frustrating. If you speak the smallest amount of Korean, their people praise you with such humbleness it will make you blush. There is a lot of pressure on the students in Korea to do well academically.  The social hierarchy that exists in Korea also exists in the workplace. I have witnessed and experienced, some intense, extremely unprofessional, and undeserved bullying in the workplace. Gender inequality and discrimination was blatant in Korea. Abortion is illegal in Korea; however, the pill is readily available over the counter. Korea has had history of mass corruption in politics. So, be warned: The Korean government doesn’t protect employees, and especially not western employees in my experience. I should also mention; I have a huge respect for Korean women, they are humble, kind, and undeniably strong. Jobs: In regards to teaching you want to try and get a public school job (EPIK). You usually don’t need a teaching degree. These jobs are longer hours, but you get more vacation time, and the job is more reliable. Hagwon jobs (after school academies) often turn into horror stories, with employers treating you like an object they bought that doesn’t work how they want it to. Working in Korea  can be very challenging due to cultural differences providing a large ethical and legal grey area for employers to act in. Food: Korea offers a lot of Korean restaurants, limited Chinese restaurants, some burger joints, and if you’re lucky a Mexican restaurant or two. There are a lot more options in Seoul and Busan for restaurants, but Jeju was quite limited. Supermarkets and grocery stores were also restricted (e.g. cheese will cost you a pretty penny).

Starting up: Taiwan is more difficult. While you don’t need a criminal record check or to prepare much before arriving, you do need money while you try to find work. You will also need some money for a deposit on the apartment you decide to rent. It also takes a bit of time for your visa to be processed and approved. Social Life: Taiwan, in my experience, had a less enjoyable nightlife. The bars and clubs seem more catered to their male clientele. I found it to be more of a struggle to find things to do on the weekends. Waterfalls and hot springs are situated a bit far away from the city and not very accessible without a car. The close beaches suffer under the smog of pollution making the grey/black sand beaches appear a little unappealing. However, there are a lot of  grand department stores,  lovely cafes, and a greater diversity of restaurants in Taiwan.  The landscape: Kaohsiung has it’s pretty parts, but it isn’t as beautiful as Jeju. Taiwan has a strong smog in the winter from it’s own pollution and China’s (which can be terrible for people with asthma or allergies). But if you are able get out of the city, Taiwan has hot springs, waterfalls and beaches that are great to escape to. Living Arrangements: Taiwan has amazing apartments that you can rent. The day to day standard of living for foreign teachers is much better than in Korea. You have complete control of your living situation, which is often not the case in Korea. Because Taiwan operates like many western countries, requiring a deposit, a rental agreement, and monthly rent payments. I love our 2 bedroom apartment, that offers a swimming pool, a recreation room, 24hour reception, and a gym.  The people: Taiwanese overall are very friendly, but I have experienced a little resentment. There does seem to be a bit of an economic and social class divide that seems to create some tension. The locals understandably really want you to learn and understand Chinese; however, it is easy to navigate yourself around without it, if you prefer. They’re government is a lot more stringent and follow through with their labor laws a little more; which made me feel a lot safer in my job. The Taiwanese are a lot more accepting of homosexuality (they were the first Asian country that legalized same sex marriage). The Taiwanese seem a bit more relaxed about broad issues like abortion, sex before marriage, homosexuality, and women’s rights. However, their two major political parties are extremely different; a reflection on their people who can often be divided on such values.   Jobs: I love my job in Taiwan. I have an American employer. It is virtually impossible to get a public school job or an international school job in Taiwan without a degree in education. My students have a lot of personality and their parent’s are doting. Employment is safer in Taiwan, but it is simpler to get a job and setup in Korea. For Taiwan it is best to get here and try and find a job. That way you can also confirm it is a good job (most schools want to meet you before hiring you). Food: Taiwan is more accepting of foreigners (it is much easier to gain permanent residency than in Korea), and therefore, they have a larger immigrant community. So, that means a LOT more variety in cuisine at restaurants.  There is also a lot more available at the supermarkets and grocery stores. For me, Taiwan’s wide selection of cuisine, really was a huge pro.

Here is a link to my first apartment in Jeju, South Korea (and possibly the nicest one I lived in there):

My first apartment in South Korea.

Here is my first apartment in Kaohsiung, Taiwan (Please note: I do split the rent with my partner, whereas in Korea I lived alone):

My first apartment in Taiwan.

In conclusion, if I had to decide between the two, I would say I found Taiwan has a much better standard of living. However, I would not give up the unique experiences I had in Korea for anything.
I hope this information has been helpful.
If you are trying to decide where to live, I think it depends what you are looking for. Taiwan is a life where you can have a nice apartment, go to nice restaurants, and have a good, reasonably reliable, job (It’s good to note you can live the party lifestyle in Taiwan and MANY expats do, I personally just can’t stand the nightlife in Taiwan). South Korea is a quirky, eccentric, fun, easy lifestyle; but it is also an unreliable and unpredictable setting.
It is your decision in the end. What sounds more like you?
Please post if you have any questions, I’m more than happy to offer any information that could be useful to you.

Taiwan’s Visa / ARC Process (ESL Teachers)

I am an Australian citizen, I flew into Kaohsiung from London as I was living in England at the time. I purchased a one-way flight out of Taiwan to Hong Kong for 90 days later this allowed me to enter Taiwan on a Visa-Exempt Entry.

Once I obtained employment as a full-time teacher my school used my contract to provide me with the work permit.

I then had to fill out and print an online visa application form; which you can find if you follow the prompts on the following website:
http://www.boca.gov.tw/

The next step was to apply for my visa at the local visa office, which for me was in Kaohsiung:
801, Kaohsiung City, Qianjin District, Chenggong 1st Rd, 436號

I had to provide the immigration office with the following documents:

1. Work Permit (Master and Copy) [There are photocopiers in the building approx. $2NT per page]
2. Passport (Master and Copy)
3. Application Form
4. 2 x Passport sized photos
5. And pay $2400NT

I then had to return to the office in 3 working days.

I had to collect the work statement and start the process to obtaining my ARC.
I had to go to a higher floor in the building and provide them with:

1. Work Permit (Master and Copy)
2. Work Statement
3. Passport
4. 1 x Passport Photo
5. A copy of bills or my lease (anything official with proof of name and address in Taiwan)
6. Application Form (This is a form that you will fill out at the office – staff will assist you)
7. And pay two fees of $2200 + $1000 = $3200NT.

You will need to wait Approx. 10 working days until you can collect you ARC from the office.
After which your school should start arranging your healthcare and have your medical card either sent to your school or advise you to collect your health card from National Health Insurance Office.

And that is a breakdown of the process for getting your working visa and ARC in Taiwan.
I hope this was helpful.

FYI:
My ARC and visa were issued before the 90day Visa-Exempt Entry expired, so I didn’t take the flight to Hong Kong. Many teachers coming in don’t bother booking a flight out of Taiwan saying most of the time immigration don’t check; and if they do they said they would just book a flight at the time. I have read some accounts of people claiming they just got a travel agent to hold a flight and print that itinerary off and then cancel it after and a couple of people have claimed they edited together a fake flight itinerary.
Personally it only cost us Approx. £25 /$50 aud for a one-way flight to Hong Kong and I think it was worth paying for the peace of mind ( and our outgoing flight did get checked at  immigration in Heathrow).

An Introduction to South Korea

South Korea is a unique, quirky and often overlooked country.
When deciding on my move to Korea, it was difficult as I was very clueless. South Korea has recently gained more media attention over the last five years (much to their people’s delight). It is with great pride, and shame, I say that I was there when PSY released the infamous ‘Gangnam Style’ to the world. A charm to some and a curse for others; this song was religiously learnt by all school children where I lived in South Korea¹. I was also their for the release of the epic South Korean motion picture Snowpiercer (If you enjoy science fiction, and haven’t seen it, I highly recommend this film).
South Koreans are extremely patriotic and do not appreciate going unnoticed compared to their neighbours in the East (specifically Japan and China, whom they have turbulent relations with due to their rocky history). Most Koreans I met were extremely hospitable and positive about Western culture (obviously it was  mixed bag). They would treat “Wagooks” (foreigners) with kindness, despite our sometimes questionable behaviour (The drinking culture and presence of American military bases did make for some trouble).
At the time though I didn’t know any of this. I googled South Korea and it showed me random teen K-Pop, some Korean food (most not to my taste as I have no tolerance for spicy food and Kimchi² is pretty much a staple for every Korean meal) and some of their language³.
What pulled me towards Korea over Japan was the fact that the employers assist you with setting up in Korea (which includes some of the costs i.e. costs of flights), there were more jobs available (which would also mean my zero hours of teaching experience wouldn’t be as much of a deterrent), you could get public school positions in Korea (government jobs are ideal as the after school Academies in Japan and Korea are unreliable and sometimes unethical), the people of Korea had a reputation for being friendly and relaxed (meaning less animosity towards Westerners), and lastly, that I could have more of a say over where I would be situated.
When researching the most beautiful coastal areas of South Korea (I prefer to live close to the ocean) I found an island called Jeju on Google – it looked like paradise. Busan was my second choice – despite it being highly recommended it is a very large city, so it is more competitive meaning you can’t be as selective over where you work. Also, the island of Jeju was so beautiful it was just far too tempting to pass on. I found a recruiter and after a lot of agonising and indecision I was called with a job offer. The only catch, if I wanted the job, I would have to leave my home and my country in 3 weeks time.

 

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¹They would fill their school grounds every morning and learn the choreography.
²Spicy pickled cabbage
³Koreans do not get enough credit for how easy to learn and clever their language is.